WAS IT PRINCESS OF THE PEOPLE OR PRINCESS, CONFUSED?

The show opened in picturesque France with guests seated in boats.

To the far left was a leafy park with a red lipstick-like carpet, separating it from the water. The carpet adding a slice of glamour and celebrity dividing the natural landscape, which reflected the Musé- the late Princess Dianna of Wales, perfectly.

The first look was very Dianna, with minimal makeup and styling. Paired with a white sheer lace dress and matching knee-high socks, the look captured her delicate vulnerability being such a young woman when she married into the Monarchy.

Jacquemus was clever in creating an almost tug of war between Dianna’s girlish naivety in conflict with the traditions belonging to royal British rigidity. This can been seen as a key theme across the collection. Examples include the bow-ties, the struxctured period dressing and the bloomers that created shape.

Diana’s softness shined through the collection in the soft ballerina themes which Jacquemus layered against her boldness and strength. These ideas were presented through the sheer lace and exposed skin, which made womanhood the main focus. On the runway, the lightness of the lace was picked up by the wind, making the model look almost warrior-like and fearless.

Jacquemus used very natural, minimalist makeup to highlight Dianna’s natural beauty and youth.

The choice of shoes were also a key reminding that Dianna was a performer. Watching the Crown, you couldn’t help but feel your heart break when Dianna organised a choreographed dance for Charles on their wedding anniversary and he scolded her for it, while continuing his entanglement with Camilla ( now Queen Consort ).

This collection exploring the duality belonging to the People’s Princess was enchanting at first, however as the collection progressed the models became more naked and the clothes more random.

A life-raft amongst the nipples and hyperthermia was definitely Kendal Jenner’s look, in the oversized, off-the-shoulder-rousted mini dress. It was a playful, deconstruction of Dianna’s most famous fashion look- her ‘revenge dress,’ post divorce and a moment of relief.

Another successful look was a menswear look, with red and blue striped polo tops and bloomers, peaking out from the top of pants. The look was striking, incredibly British and gave the male direction some interest. However, instead of exploring this idea further Jacquemus decided to ruin it with silver sequins…

What was more lazy was the decision to repeat the looks in different colour ways, right after each other. This made the first punch of the look more like a half-assed poke, while making you wonder if Jacquemus ran out of ideas mid-collection.

The show then grew confusing as the cool colour-palette of white to red ( colours royals aren’t allowed to wear ) was completely ignored by a random menswear look consisting of a casual red jumper, tutu and black jeans. This look was quite edgy but made no sense in the collection, appearing more like a stray thought that was forgotten about.

Next came a suit tangent, with an afterthought of one separate puffy sleeve? Like really? It looked like Shein’s take on Alexander McQueen.

The references to the Queen were also highly unnecessary, especially the way the models were instructed to hold the items- not to mention it felt like an ad for the most boring bags I had ever seen. Like for once this isn’t about her?

What started out as a striking collection with lots of room to grow ultimately exhibited too many hens, in the hen-house. The collection was simply too different, too random and took cheap short-cuts. Not to say, some moments were as soft and yet strong as Princess Dianna herself…However the three final looks sent me to sleep.

Jacquemus closed the show with dresses that were all sheer and all full of nipples; and thus proved my point that just like the viewers in the boats, this collection went no where.